The short I filmed over the fall is now up on Korduroy.tv‘s website! I was very honored to be asked to do a piece for them, and the road trip just happened to be a perfect subject matter to film for their Sea Movies segment.
All posts tagged surfing
Took the GoPro out for some fun and games. Lots of water moving around with the high tide, so swimming was tricky.
Finally picked up my Bar Of Soap Mini Simmons type board yesterday from the boys at Shaper Studios. They just did the final sand / polish. FYI I didn’t glass the board – I just shaped the foam and painted it, then decided fin placement and let the boys do the rest of the dirty work. Glassing is an entirely separate art form in itself and I was happy to leave it in their hands.
Put on a fresh coat of wax and drove up to Church since the SSW swell is passing us by here in Encinitas. The waves were crumbly at first but by the end of my three hour marathon sesh it had shaped up with the receding tide and the wind had eased up making it semi-glassy.
All in all I had a blast on the board. I thought it would be difficult to ride and turn, but after a few waves I started getting a feel for it. The large fins definitely keep it stable, however, it’s not as hard to turn as you might think. I can bring it all the way around pretty quick as long as my foot is on the tail. On my last wave I did a snap cutback and nearly brought the board all the way around, maybe 3/4, and felt it start sliding. But it was loose enough that I was able to bring it back around and continue down the line. So fun, I’ve never been able to do that before. I even did a few weak off the lips and floaters. It’s not as easy to pump down the line as my quad fish, but I figured that you can pump it a little and getting it to the high line is pretty important.
I’m going to need a few more sessions to really get a feel for it. But I am STOKED. Oh, and duckdiving is interesting. Even though it’s pretty squat at 4’11″, it’s beefy so it’s rather buoyant. The wide nose doesn’t help either. I got ragdolled a few times by a few sneaker 6ft sets at Church.
Anyway…if you’ve ever thought about making a board….you SHOULD. Actually I had never even thought much about making my own…until I watched Margaux and Jen doing it at Shaper Studios. I went there so much I eventually decided I had to do one myself. Once I saw Jen’s “cutie” that was it. It was exactly what I wanted to make.
Check out their website at http://www.shaperstudios.com
I’m overwhelmed by the response that “By The Way” has been getting. It’s funny for me since I’ve worked on the film and seen it so much and spent so much time on it that I just don’t “see” it anymore. I know that I like it, but I just can’t be objective about it. At this stage I only see the small things I wish I had done slightly differently.
That’s why it’s so nice to see my work appreciated, especially since this was such a labor of love. I enjoyed every second that I spent on this project.
I’ve gotta thank the surfers in the video first and foremost. Sara Taylor was awesome, always eager to go and shoot and going the extra mile to keep paddling out. I hope she gets the credit she deserves for her amazing surfing. Ornella Pellizzari, Margaux Arramon-Tucco also majorly helpful and inspirational. Jenna Balester – always down to shoot, and now that she’s back in the water we’ll be filming more surfing of her as well. Everyone else in the film – Silvana Lima, Jen Smith, Danica Elbertse, Kaleigh Gilchrist, Sofia Mulanovich, Rebecca Woods, Leila Hurst, Courtney Conlogue. I didn’t get to shoot with these girls as much but hopefully will get more time with them in the future.
I also have to thank Chris Grant for helping me out SO much when I was getting started. I didn’t know any of these people before I approached Chris one day and mentioned that I wanted to do some surf videos. He was more than happy to help me meet the girls and invite me to come down while he was shooting. This video would not even exist without his help and support.
Thanks to everyone who supported me during the filming, and everyone who came to the Board Shorts film festival to view the premiere. I am hoping to be in a few more festivals, so if you missed Board Shorts, try to make one of the other ones.
It certainly doesn’t end here – I’m hoping to keep at it. Not sure what my next big “goal” is, but ultimately I’d love to produce a video that you’ll see for sale in every surf shop around the world. Now that would be killer.
If you haven’t seen it yet, the link to the full cut of By The Way is up on the portfolio page of this site. I’ll also be posting the first two chapters as separate films so you can watch them by themselves.