Got to shoot with Mele and Jake on Thanksgiving. We got some fun swell, most swell we’ve seen in quite a few weeks. Needless to say the crowds were out, but with their talent these two got more than their share.
All posts in surfing
Margaux has been back in town for a month and a half, but I hadn’t shot any surfing with her until today.
Just got back from an epic road trip adventure with Jen Smith, Jenna Balester, and Mele Saili. We rented an RV and drove from San Diego, CA to Tofino, British Columbia Canada and back. We scored some epic surf on the way up and although we only saw Tofino’s raw and rainy side we still had a blast. The surf scene up in Canada is truly filled with stoke – we met so many amazing and generous people there. Video coming soon!
Drove up to Huntington to film with Jen Smith and Jenna Balester. Just so happened that Steph Gilmore made an appearance too, so that was fun. After that coffee and breakfast with the crew, then I headed up to Malibu with Jen where we met up with Kassia Meador. Then it was back to Huntington to hang out with Jenna and Bijou for some sunset frisbee shenanigans and get some tasty Shabu Shabu. Overall a pretty good day I’d say.
Surfed Swami’s on Tuesday from 12 – 4. Probably one of the best sessions I’ve had all year. Bright sunshine, clear blue water, and 4-6ft with some solid 8′ set waves still rolling through. I didn’t get any of the biggest set waves, but I did get some incredibly fun, bowly, 6ft righthanders that let me do a few fun turns. Swami’s, I’ve decided, can be really effin fun. You just have to go when it’s not overly crowded. I love the way the wave bends through the outside bowl, then reforms on the inside. I feel like I’ve been surfing well, and I’m really stoked on surfing at the moment. Can’t wait to go again in the morning.
There is nothing I love more than arriving home from the airport after a trip, grabbing my surfboard, and running down the block to catch a few uncrowded, glassy waves at Grandview. Today was a day just like that – 9 hour overnight flight from Tokyo, 1 hour in customs, drive home from LAX to Leucadia and arrive home at around lunchtime. Saw the ocean was still glassy and the wind was light. Decided to paddle out and just get my hair wet. Of course, that never happens – the waves were shoulder high, fast, and fun. And to top it off, there were only 4 other people out. So stoked right now.