There is nothing I love more than arriving home from the airport after a trip, grabbing my surfboard, and running down the block to catch a few uncrowded, glassy waves at Grandview. Today was a day just like that – 9 hour overnight flight from Tokyo, 1 hour in customs, drive home from LAX to Leucadia and arrive home at around lunchtime. Saw the ocean was still glassy and the wind was light. Decided to paddle out and just get my hair wet. Of course, that never happens – the waves were shoulder high, fast, and fun. And to top it off, there were only 4 other people out. So stoked right now.
went up to huntington pier today to shoot some of the building swell
It’s been chilly in San Diego during the mornings and nights, but during the day it’s been crisp and beautiful. Went down to Blacks for some miniature peelers that offered up a few turns, with no crowd. Then went on a bike ride with my friend Val and stopped at Beacon’s to check the surf (which was pretty flat, but offering a few peelers for the loggers).