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home sweet home

There is nothing I love more than arriving home from the airport after a trip, grabbing my surfboard, and running down the block to catch a few uncrowded, glassy waves at Grandview.  Today was a day just like that – 9 hour overnight flight from Tokyo, 1 hour in customs, drive home from LAX to Leucadia and arrive home at around lunchtime.  Saw the ocean was still glassy and the wind was light.  Decided to paddle out and just get my hair wet.  Of course, that never happens – the waves were shoulder high, fast, and fun.  And to top it off, there were only 4 other people out.  So stoked right now.

Tow At Session

 

Sara and I stumbled across a tow-at session in Surfside yesterday.  Turns out Sara knew the guys and was able to get whipped into a couple before the guy on the ski had to run from the Navy boats.  Hoping to repeat the session soon.

encinitas afternoon

huntington

went up to huntington pier today to shoot some of the building swell

sara taylor airing it out

courtney conlogue - tunnel vision

sara in a frother

latte barrel - sara

uppers for the last and first

For my last session of 2011 and my first session of 2012 I ventured to Upper Trestles for some peeling righthanders.  It was crowded, but I managed to get my share.  I can’t believe how lucky I am to live within easy striking distance of some of the best waves in the world.

some from lowers in the summer

lowers had some epic days this summer.  the light was awesome, and the water color a brilliant green turquoise

 

lunar eclipse

Went to the cliffs at Blacks to watch this epic lunar eclipse.  I’ve seen lunar eclipses before but this one was pretty much the best.  The color was very dramatic, and it cast a line of orange light across the ocean.  Very cool, and worth getting up early for.

Wintry Weather

It’s been chilly in San Diego during the mornings and nights, but during the day it’s been crisp and beautiful.  Went down to Blacks for some miniature peelers that offered up a few turns, with no crowd.  Then went on a bike ride with my friend Val and stopped at Beacon’s to check the surf (which was pretty flat, but offering a few peelers for the loggers).

sunset at Beacon's in Leucadia

new kicks, blacks beach

Santa Anas

cardiff reef

permabarrel